Today was to be a driving day. We were heading from Franz Josef up to Abel Tasman, a drive of 524km and 7 hours nonstop (at least according to Google). So you won’t be surprised to hear it was another early start. The terrain along the west coast was much flatter than what we had become accustomed to, but still the road twisted and turned. It adds to the character of New Zealand and seems in keeping with the country, but sure does add time to getting anywhere, particularly in a vehicle that takes a while to accelerate.
However, we were in no particular rush, which was just as well as not long after we set off we got waved down and asked to wait by an outrider car for a wideload that was twisting its way along the road. The scenery was great, and whilst it started out as a grey and (at times) wet day as went further north we left the clouds behind. We had towering mountain peaks on our right and fields and the sea on our left.
Other than stopping for photos of the sea, our first port of call was at the Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes. These limestone rocks are formed in layers, stacked one on top of the other (much like a stack of pancakes). Although formed under the sea 35 million years ago, scientists cannot explain precisely why they form layers. They did look rather impressive, and almost like they had been built by giants.
The walk around the rocky headland itself is impressive, and the headland forms a ring, with arches in the rockface allowing the sea to crash into the middle. On the seawards side of the ring, the sea crashing into the cliff caused spray to fly up and out; hence the blowholes. Impressive to see.
Before we had started our walk around the pancake rocks, we had been sitting in the van putting our waterproofs on when we spotted a long necked bird (looked a little like a small goose) checking out the front of a car parked in the car park. It then appeared to sneak up on the front of the car, checking out its surroundings before pouncing and snatching what appeared to be a small mouse or small creature from within the car’s grille. Cool to see and well executed by the bird who I like to imagine looked smug as it ran off with its prize.
Anyway, with time ever passing by, we continued on north, this time heading for Cape Foulwind and the seal colony. Now, when driving a campervan or motorhome on the one lane each way roads, it is considered polite to move over and let faster vehicles past. However, we managed to get stuck behind a useless driver who not only didn’t pull over but insisted on driving down the middle of the road whenever on a straight suitable for passing. We finally got our opportunity to pass them when they took a wrong turning, and with the sea summoning us onwards we arrived back at coast to seek out some seals.
Parking up, and with the sun now shining, we headed off up the track (on foot) up to the headland. The first lookout point looked out at a rocky island that appeared rather barren. However, taking advantage of the free binoculars positioned there we were able to find two seals on the outcrop, and got to watch them larking around in the rocky pool. It was cute and amusing seeing them play.
Further up the path, there is a viewing area from which we could look down at the seals on a rocky shelf below. Here we were spoilt for choice for seals to watch (once we got used to spotting them against the grey/brown of the rocks). We were treated to big seals chasing other seals, little seals skirting others, sunbathing seals and the odd swimming seal. We even saw seals jump across gaps between rocks!
Once back at out campervan, and after saving our cheddar from drowning in the cool box in melted ice, we were back heading north. This time we were planning on heading all the way to Marahau, on the edge of Abel Tasman National Park. The road continued to wind, bending its way left and right, and the scenery slowly changing outside our windows with peaks given way to curved hill tops. By the time we were approaching Motueka (the town before heading west to Marahau) I think its fair to say we were ready to stop driving for the day.
First though we had to replenish our supplies in Countdown. We had decided we were going to stay tonight at The Barn, having been recommended it by the lady who checked us in at the Rainforest campsite. She had practically raved about the place and we had high expectations as we clambered back into our van for the final twenty minute drive out to Marahau. Just in case we had driven over enough hills, our final approach required us to drive up and over one last summit.
Driving into Marahau, the initial view is of a natural harbour separated from the sea by a sandbank. It looked great. The road then turns and runs parallel to the beach. However, there was no sign of our planned campsite. We continued along the road until we ran out of town (Marahau is pretty tiny) and eventually, after the road had turned away from the sea and appeared to be petering out, signs for The Barn appeared. What a relief.
After checking in, and being advised which showers to use to enjoy sea views whilst showering, we parked up and plugged in Which meant that it was dinner time! The kitchen facilities were located in an old house building, and whilst relatively basic were exactly what we needed. They also had the benefit of a wood fire blazing merrily in the dining room. Ideal. Once fed and well warmed by the fire, it was bed time, although we don’t have to be up at the crack of dawn tomorrow. But we had a seriously fun activity arranged and so headed off to bed rather excited. Night!