New Zealand – Day 4: Aoraki, Glaciers and a Long Drive

Day four of our Aotearoan adventure started early with sunlight illuminating the peaks of mountains surrounding our van. Rolling back the side was an absolute pleasure, despite the cold air rushing in to attack us. Clambering somewhat inelegantly out of bed and outside revealed a beautiful mountain surround with snow capped peaks and blocks of ice clinging to their sides.

The view from bed!

Once roused and fed on a breakfast of porridge and raisins, we geared up (well, put on several layers) and headed off along the Hooker track towards the base of Mount Cook. We were enjoying another wonderfully sunny day which helped give the views an extra edge of splendidness. Hemmed in by mountains on three sides and with Lake Pukaki glistening blue in the distance on the fourth, we were being treated to a marvellous sight.

Looking back towards Lake Pukaki

Whilst there were others on the track, the winding nature combined with it being early(ish) meant that often it seemed like we were completely alone. Which was perfect. The route passes along the bottom of the glacial valley and has three swing bridges to cross, which were rather bouncy!

Looking up the stream to the mountains!

The track itself is well maintained and easy to follow and passes nearly through the bushy vegetation. The start of the track enjoys heathland style vegetation with grasses and low tress which eventually give way to more gorseland type low rugged bushes and patchy grass areas. Piles of glacial debris increase in size and frequency the further along the track we got.

Glimpsing Mt Cook

After an hour or so of walking and marvelling at our surroundings, we crested the final rise and were rewarded with views of the glacial lake laying at the bottom of Mount Cook. Along the way we had been enjoying sights of Mount Cook with Mount Tasman hiding behind it, but now we could see the full extent of Mount Cook rising before us. We could also see the face of a glacier where it terminated at the far end of the lake! Glistening in the middle of the lake was an iceberg!

We really were there!

Clutching our cameras, we headed down to the stony lake shore, Unsurprisingly the water was rather chilly but great to drink! The water was quite cloudy when seen as a whole lake, but I’ve got no idea what was causing it.

Mount Cook!

After enjoying the views and satisfying the needs of our cameras, it was time to head back along the track to the campervan. We were lucky with the weather, as whilst clouds had drawn in the sun was continuing to illuminate the mountains, and was even making its way to the valley floor, meaning I was walking along in just a t-shirt for the most part. It also meant that we had enjoyed the privilege of seeing the peaks of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman.

Aoraki Mt Cook Selfie

Heading out along the path provided its own stunning views which were great. Looking down the valley we could take in the mountains and glimpses of Lake Pukaki. It even snowed very lightly on us!

Mueller Lake beneath mountains

Once back in our campervan, it was time for us to begin our long dirve south down to Te Anau where we would be spending the night. This meant we got to drive along the edge of Lake Pukaki again, which was an absolute pleasure with the sun shining. I was driving this time as Laura had driven up the lake the night before. It was a fantastic drive!

Driving away from Aoraki alongside Lake Pukaki

Turning right at the end of the lake we ventured on south. The road followed the valley which soon opened out meaning we were back passing through sunlit plains. Hunger was soon gnawing at us so we stopped for tomato soup in Omarama. It found it rather yummy but it was a little too peppery for Laura, which was a win for me as I got half of hers as well!

The long road ahead

Back on the road again with Laura behind the wheel, it was onwards and southwards. Eventually the road began to rise again and soon it was twisting and turning as it wound its way through low mountains. It was a great road to drive on (particularly with the lack of traffic). Our campervan looked great! Although it wasn’t great on the hills and being an automatic didn’t help.

Looking back at our drive up the mountains

All too soon the road began to flatten out and we were approaching Queenstown. A trip down memory lane occurred when we drove past the bridge where Jamie and I had bungeed way back in 2005. Arriving at the edge of Queenstown, we fuelled up and went to find a Warehouse where we were hoping to pick up a new camping stove/efficient water boiler and a camping kettle. We managed a kettle but had no luck with a stove.

Looking out towards Christchurch

Back on the road we were aiming down to Te Anau where we were spending the night. Evening was rapidly passing by and the darkness drawing in. The road continued to twist and turn, passing along yet another lake. At this point the length of the drive was beginning to take its toll, especially once combined with jet lag. Long before Te Anau was insight, darkness had set in and the start were out twinkling in the night sky.

Final photo before sunset

After having had a short nap, I took over driving for the final length into town. Eventually reaching Te Anau, we found out Top 10 campsite as recommended by Mon and Tony. We arrived too late for anyone to be on reception so found ourselves a site, plugged the power lead in, and headed for the showers. Once clean and warm, we rustled up a quick pasta bolognaise before diving into the van for a sleep. Sweet dreams!

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